In the morning we crossed open tussock downs and crossed several small streams before reaching Gouland Downs hut, a small 8 bunk hut. Just past Gouland Downs hut there is a small beech forest referred to by people as the "Enchanted Forest" or "Lord of the Rings Forest", as it has a fairy tale feel to it with lots of moss growing everywhere, including hanging from trees, and deep trenches around tree roots due - presumably - to the limestone underground. The information in the huts pointed out three areas in the forest with limestone caves, one of which we took a look at - and Don explored a bit. Information in the huts also indicated that the rare, and recently reintroduced, takahe could be seen in the area as well as the much more common weka. Birdlife along the trail was not abundant although we did see a number of wekas and mostly very small birds. No takahe though.
More downs (meadows/ clear areas) and forest followed with the path - like before - varying from being rocky to being very smooth, at times very narrow but often wide enough for a cart (which can be explained when looking at the long history of the track). At times there were (still wet) grasses right along or in the middle of the track, which caused the bottom of our our pants and then our socks to get wet and water eventually making its way into our boots. (I guess we should have had gaiters or worn our rain pants.) We met a single young woman and later a couple on the track walking in the opposite direction and had a brief chat with each of them. The weather improved to it no longer being misty, so the rain jackets and pack covers came off sometime after lunch. The landscape varied from more tussock fields, wetlands with boardwalks across them and more patches of forest, with the track being more level than the day before yet still going down and climbing throughout the day. The packs weighed heavy on our hips/ shoulders later in the day and we were again happy to be able to take them off for night when we arrived at James Mackay hut after a good 24 kms of walking.
There were eight people staying in the James Mackay hut (pronounced James Macky as we learned), all members of a guided tour group with five paying trampers (four women from New Zealand and one man from Kelowna, all in their 60s if I had to guess), one guide and two helpers (helping carry extra food to the various huts). The people doing the guided tour did not have to carry or prepare any food; that was all taken care of. The guided tour company had a permanent large stainless steel bin at the James Mackay hut with cups, plates, utensils and dry, non-perishable food. Not having to carry food or cooking and eating utensils certainly makes a difference, as four days of food, plus bowls, cups, a pot and utensils comprises a large part of the weight of the backpacks. We had good chats with most people in the group.
The group was scheduled to take the helicopter across the Heaphy River, but the guide found out by satellite phone just as we arrived that the water level in the Heaphy River was low enough (first time since November) to be able to walk through it so that is what they were doing the next day. We briefly considered joining them (for a price) but would then face the logistical challenge of having to get back to our car at Brown Hut, some 431 kilometers (6.5 hours) away so decided against it.
James Mackay hut is the newest hut on the Heaphy Track and was completed in 2014. It has 28 bunks (like Perry Saddle hut) divided over three bunks rooms. We shared our room with the other Canadian (who snored). Like the other huts, the hut has a wood fired coal stove which the tour group had lit. We added our wet shoes to the other shoes already surrounding the stove and they were pretty much dry the next morning. The nice thing about this hut is that the washrooms are right on the outside of the hut, and can be reached over a covered part of the deck. They are even actual flush toilets, rather than the more common long drop toilets.
Before supper we headed down to the nearby stream where some people reportedly went for a (partial) dip, however the water was way too cold to consider this plus access was awkward. From the deck of the hut (and from inside) we enjoyed stunning views of the mouth of the Heaphy River and the Tasman Sea in the distance. The weather had completely cleared and the sunset over the Tasman Sea was magnificent.
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